If I had to narrow it down, I'd say a solid 50% of the food I make tastes the way it does because of one secret ingredient: fish sauce. Yes, fish sauce. And before you wrinkle your nose or write it off as “too funky,” let me explain why this pantry staple has been riding shotgun in my kitchen since 2016.

I first encountered the magic of fish sauce while living in Hong Kong during grad school (one of the better perks of that degree, if we’re being honest). I took advantage of every long weekend to travel, and two of the most memorable food destinations I hit were Hanoi, Vietnam and Bangkok, Thailand. The food in both cities absolutely wrecked me—in the best way. Everything I ate had this depth, this umami-rich, salty-sweet something I couldn’t put my finger on.

From bún chả (grilled pork with rice noodles) to phở to green papaya salad and pad see ew, each bite had me ready to cry over how good it was. On a walking food tour I’d booked for my mom and me (because food tours are my favorite way to learn a city), I finally asked our guide: “Why the hell does everything taste so amazing?” His answer was simple: fish sauce.

Flash forward a couple years, and I’m working garde manger at the now-shuttered but legendary James Beard award-winning Animal restaurant in Hollywood while in culinary school. If you never got the chance to eat there, Animal was nose-to-tail before nose-to-tail was cool—think bold, flavorful dishes like oxtail poutine, hamachi with citrus and chiles, and that iconic chicken liver toast. I was in charge of appetizers, and let me tell you: there was fish sauce in everything. The food was rich, layered, complex, and straight-up craveable. It left a huge imprint on how I cook.

I've never not had a bottle of fish sauce in my pantry since.

So what is fish sauce, anyway?

It’s made by fermenting small fish (usually anchovies) in salt, often for a year or more, resulting in a deeply savory, salty liquid that adds umami—that elusive “fifth taste” that makes everything taste more... delicious. It's a staple in many Southeast Asian cuisines, especially Vietnamese, Thai, Filipino, and Cambodian cooking.

I know it sounds intense. But when used right, it doesn’t make your food taste “fishy”—it just makes it taste better. More alive. More complete.

A Few Easy Ways to Start Using Fish Sauce Today:

• Add a few dashes to your stir-fry sauce instead of soy sauce for depth and saltiness.
• Stir it into salad dressings (especially with lime juice and a little sugar) for an instant Thai-style vinaigrette.
• Use a tiny splash in your soups, stews, or braises—anywhere you’d normally add Worcestershire sauce.
• Mix it with brown sugar and lime juice as a marinade for chicken or pork.
• Add it to caramelized onions or mushrooms to really make them sing.
  

My go-to brand right now is Three Crabs, but rumor has it there’s one out there that’s even better. I picked up a new bottle from Buford Highway Farmer’s Market recently and can’t wait to crack it open. (If you’ve got a fish sauce you swear by, let me know—I’m always on the hunt.)

Here’s the hard truth: if you’re going to cook a good number of my recipes, you’re gonna need a bottle of fish sauce. Trust me. It’s the not-so-secret secret weapon behind some of the best dishes I make.

More than anything, I want to encourage you to stay curious in your own kitchen. Some of my favorite flavors came from asking “what is THAT?” and being open to trying something new—even if it came from a bottle that smells a little intense.

So go ahead. Grab a bottle. Welcome to the fish sauce fan club.

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